Putting (Slow-Swing) Mode
Let me first explain how putting mode works with our sensors. For starters, it really should not be called ‘Putting Mode’ – the more realistic description of this function is ‘Slow-Swing mode’. But since it was originally called Putting Mode that is how all the P3ProSwing documentation is.
I’ll first explain how the sensor operates. The optics you see are a combination of emitters (which emit infrared light upward toward your club or club tape) and detectors (which record the data as that infrared signal is returned to the sensor unit). When the sensor pad is powered, there are 3 trigger emitters which will always be on (one in each of the trigger openings as indicated in the picture). In ‘normal mode’, when your club passes over the triggers – the remaining emitters on the sensor unit are fired for 1/10th of a second. With a normal swing (even chipping), this is long enough for your entire swing to be completed.
When you are within 40 feet of the pin, the sensor unit goes into the ‘Slow-Swing Mode’ as it assumes an accurate swing cannot be completed within this time frame. You may notice that this ‘Slow-swing mode’ causes ALL emitters on the sensor unit to remain lit (until the club passes the exit row). This is the period where the red ‘Putting Mode LED’ is bright red. When the sensor is activated for Slow-swing mode, it will cycle on for approximately 10 seconds. After the 10 seconds, the putting mode indicator will go off (along with all the emitters except the trigger emitters) for a couple seconds. It will then cycle back on. It will do continue this on/off cycle 3 or 4 times before the sensor will ‘time-out’ (stop cycling). You should always execute your ‘slow-swing’ while this Putting Mode indicator is on. Should the sensor ‘time-out’, you can reactivate Putting Mode in a couple of ways (depending on which software you have open). If you are using the core P3ProSwing software (via P3ProSwing Golf icon), you can simply press the letter ‘O’ on the keyboard and putting mode should be reactivated. If you are in any other of our software options (Virtual Course software, PC-Game Interface or even in the core P3ProSwing software), you can simply switch to a different club (other than putter) and then go to the putter. Putting Mode should reactivate.
Because of the 40 foot threshold, it is possible to be off the green and still be in ‘Putting Mode’.
You should execute your putt while the red light is illuminated.
All putters need to be taped, as very few (even if narrow enough) have the reflective properties to be recognized properly.
It is VERY important to use the proper tape. Putter Tape is much different and has different reflective properties than the Driver/Hybrid & Iron tape. Those tapes will not work properly. Mallet style (larger) putters will have issues with recognizing swings if not taped properly with the appropriate. Blade style putters work best. Another testing suggestions, if you’re having problems with putting, is to try putting with an iron (preferably, chrome plated without tape) to see if putting works properly or not. If the iron works on the driving range without tape, it should work in putting without the tape. This will test to see if your issue is club specific and/or related to the taping of the club as you are using a club that you know works fine with the simulator.
ProGolf specific information & issues:
You should assure you do not have more than 1 P3ProSwing application running at the same time.
Another common issue with putting on the ProGolf Software comes with reading the green. Be very cautious of the green contour, animated arrow direction and speed.
In my testing with the software, I found that the putting was very difficult on some courses. Most of the problems I believed to be with the difficulty of actually reading the greens. When I found a level green, the distances tested out near perfect. What I started to do to help better understand the green and the contours was to use the <SHIFT> key to review the green. Holding the <SHIFT> key down while working the arrow keys will put the user in a view similar to kneeling on the green. Then you can see where the ups & downs are a little better.
The arrow in the bottom left telling you the hole elevation can be deceiving. If you look at the image, you'll see that the ball position and cup position are at the same elevation and would get an elevation indication of 0". Obviously, this is not the same as putting on a level surface:
So, what you are looking for is a shot analysis that shows no fluctuation in elevation such as this:
Hopefully that'll explain it better.
I’ve also found that certain courses are harder for putting then others, just like in real life.
You can change the ball friction higher, if desired, and that will reduce the roll on the ball.